 |
 |
| Hungary is one of the great survivors of history, an oasis in Central Europe's Carpathian Basin that lost two-thirds of its territory following the First World War. It now shares borders with seven countries and joined the EU in 2004.
Like the home-made pálinka traditionally served here as a digestif, Hungarian culture is strong and distinctive. In its cities and towns you can find thermal spas with chess-playing bathers and hear the virtuoso performances of Gipsy musicians and the Hungarian language itself. In its pristine countryside traditions are upheld and are equally robust, with village festivals and livestock markets, folk art and dancing. Visitors to Hungary's Northern Uplands in particular are rewarded with a wealth of national treasures. Abundant wildlife, wooded hillsides, ruined castles and four distinct seasons are just some of the riches of life in this peaceful corner of Europe. |
 |
 |
 Cars made from wood pulp, old bicycles, migrating storks - just some of the diversity of Hungarian life |
| Aggtelek National Park boasts the largest cave network in Central Europe, which stretches across the border into Slovakia, toward the Tatra mountains. Guided tours reveal underground waterfalls, the world's largest stalagmite and a small example of a mother-in-law's tongue. The nearby Baradla cave also has a huge cavern used for concerts and weddings and open 365 days a year. | Wild boar is much in evidence in the surrounding woodland |  |
|
|
|||
Above ground are forests where quiet signposted trails take you through an unspoilt, gentle terrain perfect for walks and bike rides. This region teems with wildlife, from indigenous wildflowers to rare birds, butterflies, wild boar and lynx. Last year, 80,000 cranes arrived in Hungary on their migration. |
 |
Some nearby valleys can be enjoyed from the comfort of a railway carriage | |
| Storks, equally impressive in size, visit too, with several pairs nesting near to our guesthouse from Apri to August. "A very peaceful and relaxing place." |
|||
|
||
| Tornaszentandrás is a village of 180 inhabitants in a sheltered valley of the National Park, a short bike ride away from Slovakia. It has two shops stocking fruit, vegetables, meat and local goods. Its small, shingle-roof church, a national treasure from the 12th century, is unique in Central Europe, having twin semicircular altars. Inside this perfectly preserved building are centuries-old frescoes. Its position, atop a hill overlooking the village, affords good views of the national park and the hills of Slovakia. "The area is just right for off the beaten track experiences and cycling." Getting here |
Home fires burning - the Hungarian countryside exudes warmth and charm |  |
 |
||